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Post Info TOPIC: A real ass kicker. This one was good.


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A real ass kicker. This one was good.


This is a 2 part deal with a lot of very good lessons.

2001 Olds Aurora

3.5l V6

Car runs great.

MIL is on. -P0410- Air injection system fault

Master window switch non-op.

Using my Solus Pro.


WWYD?

Fire away guys...this is good

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atleast you didnt have to do the head gaskets on that thing, its quite a bear.

first id see if the air pump wiring and the window wiring intersect, who knows you might get stupidly lucky

check air pump operation
you can either trick ect sig, or manually operate, atleast a false ect will give you computer command.

if its operational look for O2 dilution i believe, to see if diverters are good.

as for both you needa check fuses

master window switch non op? as in all other switches work from their respective doors?
is it equipped with a body module that controls the windows? if not trace main power feed and make sure sodie or coffee didnt get in their, most master switches ive done were fault due to the harness moving excessively between door n body but those usually occur on old cars.

thats all i can think of for now its been a long day.

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Negligent Op wrote:

atleast you didnt have to do the head gaskets on that thing, its quite a bear.

first id see if the air pump wiring and the window wiring intersect, who knows you might get stupidly lucky

check air pump operation
you can either trick ect sig, or manually operate, atleast a false ect will give you computer command.

if its operational look for O2 dilution i believe, to see if diverters are good.

as for both you needa check fuses

master window switch non op? as in all other switches work from their respective doors?
is it equipped with a body module that controls the windows? if not trace main power feed and make sure sodie or coffee didnt get in their, most master switches ive done were fault due to the harness moving excessively between door n body but those usually occur on old cars.

thats all i can think of for now its been a long day.



All fuses were good

Master switch and air have no common wiring.

Car has a door module in each door.

Each window works on each respective door switch, just not from the master.

At this point I noticed that the whole door was dead. No mirror movement, seat memory, windows, or locks.

All functions were working ok via scan tool command, including drivers door window.

All wiring to the doors is ok.



Air injection pump is easily commanded with the scanner. It fires right up. So all wiring to the pump is good.

Car is ftted with a vacuum controlled shut off check valve.

Vacuum is sent to the shut off valve through a control solenoid.

There is an option to command on the solenoid and pump via scan tool. Doing so, O2 does not change.

Now im thinking the valves are bad, but to cover my ass I decide to check the vacuum to the valve with the solenoid commanded on. I get no vacuum to the valves.

At the solenoid I have B+ on one wire and nothing on the other wth the connector disconnected.

Connected, I have B+ on both with solenoid commanded via scan tool.


Lets knock out the Air problem first. Thats the way I did it. This way I wont get mixed up

So what next?

-- Edited by Roche at 22:38, 2008-10-17

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mastr switch one piece with door and mirror control? if so chuck it and replace or find KG to test with

ground commanded sol or b+, hows wiring to sol? did you test sol manually?

must be fancy to have a scanner with functional controls, we gots an OTC genysucks that takes two smokes n drinks to load up.

doesnt sound like much of an ass kicker that you have these luxiouries, its only an ass kicker if you replace it and there is a short you cant find that keeps wiping everything out.

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Solenoid is ground controlled.

Power probe, send ground to it and it works fine.

commanded with my solus and it wont work. No ground sig to it. None leaving the PCM.


Next?

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break out the t pins and back probe from pcm then start wire tracing, sucks for you

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Solenoid commanded with the solus, no output from pcm.

Going through the factory flow chart, I get to the point where it says replace PCM.

Thats not gonna happen.

Thats when I got a tip from the Godfather (Pete)

Any ideas?

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So I call up Pete for alittle brain storm session. He suggests ditching the Solus and grabbing a tech 2.

Hook up the tech 2 and the solenoid is functioning properly.

Non OEM scan tools are great, but this is a perfect example on how they might lead someone in the wrong direction.


Now I head back to the shutoff valves. Solenoid on, I have 3" of vacuum at one, and 12 at the other, KOER.

Where next?

-- Edited by Roche at 23:04, 2008-10-24

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3" inches thats a bit low aint it see if some carb spray can clear it up if no i think its no beuno

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Way too low.

The difference in vacuum at the two valves had me thinking an issue with the vacuum lines to the valves.

Smoked the lines with no help.

Disconnected both lines at valves, plugged one end and checked vac at the other. I had full man vac.

Lines are good.

Tried to pull vac on the valves themselves, back one wouldn't hold vac.

Two new valves problem fixed.


Long story short, scan tools can bite you.


Now to the master switch.

Back car up to open door up.

Check fuses. All ok

Start to get into the wiring in the door when I notice the dash lights were dim.

Go to start the car again, and now I have a no start.

All I did was check fuses, and start to look at some wiring cause the whole door was dead.

What next?

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dim with door open? or closed?. did you do funtcional check with door open or closed? any changes with door open or closed if so wiring in between door is torn

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All power and grounds to the door module in the door were good. Funcional check of windows and locks with Tech 2 worked perfect. Class 2 serial data for security purposes was making it to the PCM uninterupted.

Replaced drivers door module and the door worked fine.

Still no start.

This is a funky one. No guess is to wild

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